Timing is everything. Transplant too early and cold soil stunts growth or frost kills plants. Too late and root-bound seedlings struggle to establish.

Soil Temperature Matters: Warm-season crops like tomatoes need soil at least 60°F. Cool-season crops tolerate 45-50°F soil. Use a soil thermometer - air temperature can be deceiving.

Check Your Frost Dates: Your LocalRoots Growing Profile shows estimated frost dates. Tender crops (tomatoes, peppers, squash) should go out 1-2 weeks AFTER last frost. Hardy crops (broccoli, cabbage) can go out 2-4 weeks BEFORE.

Size of Seedlings: Transplant when seedlings have 3-5 sets of true leaves and are 3-6 inches tall. Smaller plants establish better than overgrown ones.

Good preparation prevents problems later:

1. Loosen soil 8-12 inches deep. Add compost if soil is compacted or poor.

1. Test drainage by filling the planting hole with water. It should drain within an hour. Standing water rots roots.

1. Plan your spacing: Check the recommended spacing for each crop. Overcrowding leads to disease and reduced yields.

1. Mark planting spots before you start. This prevents transplant shock from sitting around with exposed roots.

1. Water the bed the day before planting so soil is moist but not muddy.

Best timing: Transplant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon. Avoid hot, sunny midday when stress is highest.

1. Water seedlings thoroughly 1-2 hours before transplanting.

1. Dig holes slightly larger than root balls. Add a handful of compost to each hole.

1. Remove seedlings carefully. Squeeze cell trays from below to push out the root ball. Never pull by the stem.

1. Handle by leaves, not stems. A damaged leaf recovers; a damaged stem kills the plant.

1. Set at proper depth: Most vegetables go at the same depth as they were growing. Exception: tomatoes can be buried deeper - they'll grow roots along the buried stem.

1. Firm soil gently around roots to eliminate air pockets.

1. Water immediately with a diluted seaweed or transplant solution to reduce shock.

Tomatoes: Bury 2/3 of the stem for stronger root systems. Remove lower leaves first.

Brassicas (broccoli, cabbage): Plant slightly deeper than original level and firm soil well. These can be top-heavy.

Squash and Melons: Disturb roots as little as possible. These resent transplanting - consider direct sowing if your season allows.

Peppers: Wait for warm soil (65°F+). Cold soil severely stunts pepper growth.

Onions: Trim tops to 4 inches before transplanting to reduce water loss.

The first two weeks after transplanting are critical:

Water daily for the first week if no rain. Then gradually reduce to encourage deep root growth.

Provide shade for 3-5 days if weather turns hot and sunny. A lightweight row cover or upturned pot works.

Protect from wind which dries out leaves faster than roots can replace moisture.

Watch for cutworms: These soil-dwelling caterpillars chew through stems at ground level. Collar plants with cardboard tubes (toilet paper rolls work great).

Avoid fertilizing for 2-3 weeks. Let plants establish roots before pushing top growth.

Wilting despite moist soil: Transplant shock. Keep shaded and misted for a few days. Most plants recover within a week.

Yellow leaves: Often nitrogen deficiency from root damage. Feed with diluted liquid fertilizer once plants perk up.

No growth after 2 weeks: Check for root problems. Gently lift the plant - if roots haven't spread into surrounding soil, there may be a drainage or temperature issue.

Stems cut at ground level: Cutworm damage. Apply collars to remaining plants and consider Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) soil drench for severe infestations.